A Guide to Quality Footwear - Derby Shoes
Paraboot Avignon, Photo: Otokomae
A Derby shoe, also called a Blucher, Gibson, or Lorne, became popular as hunting and sports shoes in the mid-19th century. The Derby shoe we know today may have originally been designed as military footwear during the Napoleonic Wars. After nearly two centuries this shoe may not serve the same purpose as it once did, but it still plays a similar role in style. The Derby is often considered a more comfortable version of the Oxford. No matter which style came first, Derby shoes have a more relaxed look, making them suitable for both smart and casual wear. They work perfectly in both suede and leather.
Photo: Beckett Simonon, Oxford on top, Derby on the bottom
What makes the derby shoe and the difference with oxfords
The main difference between a Derby and an Oxford is the lacing system. The Derby shoe has "open lacing," which means the parts with the eyelets (quarters) are sewn on top of the front part of the shoe (vamp), leaving a small gap when laced. In contrast, the Oxford shoe has quarters sewn under the vamp, creating "closed" lacing with no gap. This makes the Oxford fit snugly and hold its shape, even if the foot swells.
It's important to note that open lacing is seen as more casual, while closed lacing looks neater and is more formal. This is why Derbies are considered the more casual option of the two styles.
Different styles of Derby shoes
A Derby shoe has three main features: open lacing, quarters sewn together at the heel and under the vamp, and an exposed ankle. Besides these features, there are many ways to customize the design and below is the list of most popular derby styles.
Plain Derby
The plain Derby got its name because it has no extra details. It's a simple shoe that's easy to recognize. This style is popular in suede, which makes it even more casual and versatile for different outfits.
Cap Toe Derby
The toe cap makes this style a bit less formal than a plain Derby, so you might not wear it with very formal outfits. Any decorations, like broguing, are usually just on the edge of the toe cap.
Top Row from left to right: Septieme Largeur, Loake, Heschung, Crockett & Jones
Bottom Row from left to right: Carmina, Alden, Cheaney, Velasca
Split Toe Derby - often called Norwegian Split Toe
The style started in Northern Europe and has two main origin stories. One suggests that Norwegian fishermen created the shoes to keep water out by reducing seams near the welt. Another story credits English navigational engineers, or "navvies," who designed the shoes for wet conditions along railways and canals. The earliest examples are found in England. Although this style was created for its functionality, it is also very stylish and versatile. Today, it can be worn for both formal and casual occasions, making it a great choice for any event. It looks great in both leather and suede.
Top Row from left to right: Sanders, Edward Green, Heschung, Morjas
Bottom Row from left to right: Paraboot, J.M.Weston, Scarosso, Carmina
Brogue Derby
The brogue Derby is a Derby shoe that has brogue detailing. Brogueing means small holes in the leather, which can be a simple design only on the toe or a full brogue with holes around the sides of the shoe. These details make it a great smart-casual option.
Here I want to point out that not all brogues are Derbies. Broguing is the decoration on the upper, but the type of shoe, like an Oxford or Derby, is based on lacing system.
Top Row from left to right: Max Sauveur, J.M.Weston, TLB Mallorca, Morjas
Bottom Row from left to right: Loake, Crockett & Jones, Septieme Largeur, Tricker’s
Other Derby Shoes
There are some other variations of a derby shoe, like a wingtip derby or apron toe or a moc toe and a few others, but in this article I focused on the styles that I think are the most common.
When it comes to casual footwear I prefer suede derbies, but it’s hard to choose my favorite style, it might be a moc toe, followed by a split toe and a cap toe.
Let me know if you preffer any style or material when it comes to derby shoes.
