I was putting together some outfits for spring when I realized it would make sense to point out why I think some pieces are more versatile than others, so this article might be the first in a new series. Another thought that struck my mind today is that spring is the season when washed blue jeans are the most versatile. During fall and winter, as it gets colder, many people tend to dress in darker clothes. But in spring, the warmer it gets, the more people tend to choose lighter colors. And lighter colors mean a higher chance that the outfit will work with washed blue jeans.

When somebody says "jeans," they usually mean one of the two most common options — dark (indigo) jeans or washed blue jeans. Which one you prefer comes down to personal preference, but there are some objective points you can’t deny — dark indigo jeans have a more serious appeal, while washed jeans look more casual and have a slightly more relaxed vibe. And that’s the main reason why I think washed blue jeans are more versatile than dark indigo denim. For outfit combinations that work with jeans, both dark and washed blue pair should work, but the overall vibe of the outfit that each of these two options create can be very different.

Dark indigo jeans is perfect for dressing up and wearing with more tailored pieces. And don’t get me wrong — it also looks great with just a white tee, a military overshirt, or a leather jacket. But even when worn very casually, like in the examples above, it still appears a bit more polished. I’d call it a bit more serious — it has more of a military appeal, probably because we’re used to seeing it in old military photos and movies. Another thing to note is that the material is stiffer and you can see that in how it wears and behaves. On the contrary, washed blue jeans are softer and more comfortable. The difference in how they look and feel is quite obvious if you’ve worn both.

Washed blue jeans are in my opinion, the most casual pair of trousers that still work really well with tailoring. (Some might argue that fatigues hold that title, but I disagree.) Jacket or no jacket, they always work. They’re almost bulletproof when it comes to pairing with other clothes. The only mistake you can make is choosing a jacket or shirt that is too elegant or too formal, as that would split your outfit in half — very formal from the waist up, while below the belt, it would look like you forgot to change your trousers.

In this article, I will not go into detail about the differences between washing processes, like stone washing or bleaching, but it’s important to understand that there are many different shades of blue washes, from very light to very dark. This is often referred to as a one-year wash or two-year wash. The more years you add, the more washed the denim is, meaning the lighter the shade of blue. The main thing I want to point out is the difference in appeal between an evenly washed look and a “faded” or very worn-in look (when the area around the knees is much more washed out than the rest of the jeans). The first has a more clean, elegant appeal, which makes it more suitable for tailoring but it still works well with everything else. While the faded look works well with workwear, military jackets, or a leather jacket, I don’t think it looks good with a sport coat.

When you pair jeans with tailoring, almost any sport coat will work. My suggestion is to avoid black jackets, but even black can work with washed jeans — just make sure the jacket is not too formal. The best options are a navy blazer or lighter colors like beige, tan or light grey, but it will work well with basically all natural colors — shades of brown, grey, navy, and olive. I also think that washed jeans work better with patterned sport coats (checked, herringbone, houndstooth, etc.) than with plain jackets. Outfits where you pair washed jeans with a sport coat should work with basically everything — a simple white tee, a polo, a rugby shirt, an OCBD shirt, or even a camp collar shirt. I would only avoid all-white shirts which are usually too formal. Of course, on a colder day a knitted crewneck, v-neck, or rollneck works as well.

For more casual options, most jacket styles will work in almost any color. Still, I would personally avoid non-denim jackets in a shade of blue that’s too close to the jeans or anything in black, with the only exception being a leather jacket. It’s hard to find a combination cooler than a white tee, washed blue jeans, and a black leather rider jacket — such a classic look! Unfortunately, this combination doesn’t really work for my body type. But luckily, I think there’s another look that’s just as cool and classic: washed blue jeans paired with olive military jacket or overshirt (like an M-43, M-65, P-43, or Jungle Jacket). Again, it’s almost impossible not to look cool in this combination. Other jacket styles that work really well are brown suede jackets, waxed jackets, and overcoats (trench coats most of the year and wool overcoats in winter), but also down jackets and parkas in winter. And the last option is a “Canadian Tuxedo” - when you pair jeans with a denim jacket, but make sure it’s the same wash though. In my opinion, this is the only way it can work.

What about the shoes? I think washed blue jeans work with basically everything but I would suggest you avoid formal shoes (even though they can work with some oxfords). If we're talking about more serious looks, I would always go with derby shoes, but chukka boots work as well. My favorite type of footwear to pair them with is penny loafers – they make the whole outfit, even if it's more dressed up, a lot more effortless. Washed blue jeans work really well with all shades of brown suede shoes, as well as black leather shoes. I think pairing them with black leather shoes always creates more of an Ivy League or preppy look. But speaking of black footwear, I wouldn’t pair washed blue jeans with black suede shoes, but that’s just my personal opinion. The same goes for brown leather shoes, I don’t think they are the best option with washed blue jeans. In my opinion they work a lot better with dark indigo jeans. White canvas sneakers are another option I really like to pair with washed blue jeans — this combination creates a very nice contrast and gives a relaxed vibe. It is also a great way to dress down a look with a sport coat. If you’re looking for an alternative to canvas sneakers in warmer weather, you can pick boat shoes or espadrilles!