Guide to Quality Footwear
Over the last couple of months, I’ve made a few lists of my favorite summer items, from shirts and shorts to swimwear and caps. I also wrote an article about what I think are the perfect summer footwear styles. But now it's finally time to talk about better-made footwear. What does that even mean? Better-made usually means higher quality materials and construction, but also better working conditions for the workers who made the product, and the brand's care for sustainability. Better quality for most items means they have a longer lifespan, and many of these items can be easily repaired, or when talking about shoes, re-soled. All this leads to less waste.
I know not everyone will agree with me on that, but when we buy better-made items, we usually wear them more, and many of these garments fit us even better after they are perfectly broken in and take the shape of our bodies. This creates a stronger personal attachment to the items, and I believe this is also one of the reasons why people who wear better-made stuff tend to own less and love it more. This personal attachment is also why we care so much about fixing our things if they get damaged or broken.
When we talk about quality-made footwear, we usually mean traditional handmade footwear that originates from the mid-19th century, when the sewing machine was invented and, a few decades later, the Goodyear welt machine. This marked the beginning of mass shoe production. The Goodyear welt is a technique for stitching the upper to the midsole and outsole. It allows the stitches to be removed, separating the upper from the midsole and outsole. So, after the shoe is worn out, you can continue using the same upper by simply replacing the midsole and outsole. Quality shoes are usually Goodyear welted or even hand welted. However, there are a few other techniques for stitching the upper to the sole. To better understand handmade shoes, let’s go through the different welt types:
Goodyear Welt: A welt is stitched to the upper and insole, and then the outsole is sewn to the welt. This method is highly durable, water-resistant, and allows for easy resoling, making it a popular choice for high-quality shoes.
Norwegian Welt: The upper is stitched to the insole and a welt, and then the outsole is stitched to the welt. This construction is very durable and offers excellent water resistance, making it ideal for rugged conditions, but it can be bulky and heavy.
Blake Stitch: The outsole is stitched directly to the insole and the upper, making the shoe flexible and lightweight. However, it's less water-resistant and harder to resole compared to other methods.
Blake Rapid: This method combines the Blake stitch with an additional outsole. The first stitch attaches the upper to the insole, and the second stitch attaches an extra outsole, making the shoe more durable and easier to resole than a standard Blake stitch.
These are the basics you should know and understand if you're just getting into quality footwear. Choosing the right leather type for the upper is also important, but I will discuss this in future articles, where I’ll go into more detail about each footwear style and the best makers for each. I will cover all the main styles of men’s shoes: loafers, boots, Oxford shoes, Derby shoes, brogues, monk strap shoes, driving shoes, and boat shoes. These different shoe styles were created for specific purposes in the past. The styles that are still used today for their functionality are mostly those that are water-resistant.
I hope this article helps you better understand the different welt types and how they influence the style and durability of quality-made footwear.
