The History and Versatility of the Washed Denim Western Shirt

Harrison Ford in Western Denim Shirt

If we are talking about versatile timeless pieces, it’s impossible to not talk about the washed denim western shirt. Western shirt dates back to early 19th century, but it’s roots can be traced back to 16th century when Spanish colonisers arrived in the Americas and brought horses and domesticated cattle with them. These horse-mounted livestock herders were called vaqueros and they were the original version of what later became the American cowboy. Vaqueros wore light cotton or silk shirts with a yoke back panel and pocketed front. The shirts were more slim-fitting to avoid catching on bushes and made longer so they would stay tucked in while riding horses. The special shoulder yoke helped protect the fabric from wearing out when carrying rope and added extra sun protection. The flap pockets kept their valuables safe. These shirts often had pleats and embroidery, like Guayaberas.

In the 1880s, Buffalo Bill’s Wild West shows brought cowboy culture and rope tricks to the public. Inspired by Vaqueros, they told dramatic stories of the Wild West and turned cowboys into legendary figures through theatrical performances. They toured the world and changed how people saw America. The white cowboy became a symbol of the nation and replaced the image of the urban gentleman with a more rugged figure. By the late 1800s the Wild West had become so popular that “dude ranches” began popping up to offer city people a romanticized, tourist-friendly taste of cowboy life. Real ranches were adapted to meet these expectations and the ranchers dressed and performed like the cowboys seen in the shows. 

In the 1920s, silent Western movie stars like Buck Jones, Bill Hart, and Tom Mix helped shape the cowboy look on screen. Their films may seem dramatic now, but they had a big influence on 1930s Hollywood and started the "Golden Age of Westerns," which fueled a decades-long fascination with the Wild West. As Western style became more popular, brands like Levi's and Pendleton started making Western-style shirts from wool and gabardine. In the 1930s, Levi's rebranded with the cowboy as their symbol and released their 1938 "Dude Ranch Duds" catalog. This marked their shift from selling workwear, to focusing on fashion customers. This move led to iconic ads and made Levi's a major name in America.

Old Levi’s ad

The War years changed a lot, including fashion, making less formal clothes more common. After WWII, Western wear became more popular and widely available. Companies started mass-producing Western clothing and worked with rodeo tailors to make their designs more authentic.

We don’t exactly know when they started making Wester Shirts from Denim fabric, but we know when the now famous snap buttons were added which created what is today considere a classic Western Shirt. 

In 1946, Jack A. Weil started Rockmount Ranch Wear in Denver, Colorado, with the goal of creating a unique Western style for both cowboys and the general public. He modernized traditional rodeo designs with new materials, making Western wear easier to mass-produce. Jack's big idea came in 1938 when he saw a Chinese tailor using 'glove-snaps' on shirts. He realized snap buttons had two key benefits: they would pop open if the shirt got caught on something, preventing a cowboy from getting stuck, and they would eliminate the need to re-sew a loose button, something cowboys were unlikely to do. This became a signature design feature of his Western shirts, helping his brand stand out. Jack is credited with popularizing the Western snap button, the saw-tooth pocket, and diamond-shaped snaps. Levi's introduced their first snap-button shirt in 1959.

After more than 80 years, the Western shirt is still a very popular piece among classic menswear enthusiasts, and there are several reasons why. The main reason is probably its versatility, as it can be worn with workwear or military clothes, but it also look perfect paired with a sport coat or even a suit. And the best thing about it is that it only gets better with wear.

Below are some of my favorite outfit options with the Washed Denim Western Shirt.

Ralph Lauren

IG: leonardosimoncini

IG: regis.guyot

IG: pardowd

IG: master_keynes

IG: kitblake_trousers

Alex Turner

IG: mr.winston.ch

IG: modemanstore

IG: alessandrosquarzi

IG: carl_pers

IG: urbancomposition

Austin Butler

Harrison Ford

IG: alessandrosquarzi

IG: jkf_man

Let me know if you already own a Denim Western Shirt and what is your favourite way to wear it. If you're still looking for one, in this article you can find the best quality Washed Denim Western Shirts you can buy today.


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