What is Raglan overcoat or a Balmacaan? And the best options available today.
A history of Raglan sleeve
Lord FitzRoy Somerset was a British officer who lost his hand after being shot by a French sniper at the Battle of Waterloo. Due to this traumatic injury his uniform made it hard for him to move. He continued to serve for 30 more years and became Master-General while also earning a new title - Baron Raglan.
In 1851, John Emery founded Aquascutum, a tailor in Mayfair that became popular among military officers and the upper class. Emery and his team designed a new sleeve style for Baron Raglan to improve his range of motion.
Raglan sleeve today
For many years, the raglan sleeve was primarily used in coats, but today it’s commonly found on knitwear, sweatshirts and t-shirts. It is easy to spot because is lacks defined shoulder seams and offers a smooth fit that follows the natural curve of the shoulder. Its armhole adapts to any body shape and remains comfortable, even over a suit jacket.
Raglan Sleeve Hooded Sweatshirt
About the Balmacaan coat
A balmacaan is a loose, roomy, single-breasted overcoat with raglan sleeves, often made from thick wool or tweed. It is named after an estate near Inverness, Scotland and was first mentioned in the second half of the 19th century. The raglan sleeve not only provides a greater range of motion but also protects against water penetration by eliminating the shoulder seam. The coat comes with a Prussian collar, buttoned sleeve straps to keep out the wind and rain, and a fly-front closure to prevent the buttons from snagging.
It became popular in the 1930s after the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII and Duke of Windsor) wore one to the Epsom Derby in 1929. Known for his trend-setting style, he helped make the coat a fashion staple. It became especially popular among American college students, who appreciated its versatility and easy style. By the mid-1930s, it was as popular on campuses as the camel hair polo coat.
Since then, the overcoat has become a timeless classic, barely influenced by changing fashion trends. Over the years, its length, fit and shape have varied slightly, but the core design has stayed the same for over 150 years. That’s because it is a combination of timeless design, quality fabric and practicality, which makes it work with any style.
Below is a list of my personal favourite quality options available today:
Private White V.C. x The Permanent Style - Donegal Overcoat
Probably one of the most famous versions in recent years, this overcoat was made in collaboration with The Permanent Style. It has a regular fit, not as loose as some other options. External welt pockets give it a sleeker look, making it perfect for wearing with tailoring, but it also works well with everything else. Proudly made in their own factory in Manchester, it’s available in 3 different variations.
Price: 1450€, get it here
Kaptain Sushine - Traveller Coat
Very clean silhouette with a regular fit. It’s a heavy coat, but the length is right at the knee, usually coats fall below the knee or above it, so this might be unusual for many.
This season it’s available in navy, grey and black.
Price: 1099€, get it here.
Berg and Berg - Tweed Raglan Coat
This coat has a generous fit with large patch flap pockets that give the coat a more casual vibe. On the back it has a vent that goes up to around mid height of the coat so it moves and drapes nicely when you walk. Made in Portugal.
This year, it’s available in 6 different variations.
Price: 1295€, get it here.
Anglo Italian - Raglan Sleeve Overcoat
A very sleek and elegant version, which make it more formal than most other options available. Made in Italy.
Available in 3 variations.
Price: 1647€, get it here.
Trunk Clothiers - Devonshire Overcoat
Another clean design but this one has a roomier silhouette and it’s a bit shorter in length. Made in Italy.
Available in Navy and in Prince of Wales check made from Harris Tweed wool.
Price: 1092€, get it here.
Arpenteur - Utile Overcoat
This coat has a much roomier fit, making it very casual and perfect for relaxed outfits. Made in France.
Available in 3 variations.
Price: 850€, get it here.
Drake’s - Raglan Overcoat
This coat has a perfect silhouette with a beautiful rear vent. The patch pockets balance it out - adding a touch of casual style that makes it perfect for any occasion. Made in Italy.
It’s currently available in 13 variations.
Price: 1950€, get it here.
Mackintosh - The Boston overcoat
A very clean silhouette and traditional fit. This coat will work perfectly with very formal looks, but can also be dressed down to completely casual style.
Available in navy and grey.
Price: 1195€, get it here.
J. Mueser - Exploded Glen Check Wool Tweed Balmacaan
This is a belted version with exposed buttons, which makes it cosier and more dramatic when you tie the belt and make it a lot narrower in waist.
Available in a beautiful grey and brown exploded Glen check wool/cashmere herringbone tweed.
Price: $1750, get it here.
Wythe - Raglan Wool Overcoat
Wythe developed amazing wool patterns, especially oversized herringbone looks absolutely stunning. The coat has a big, perfectly designed collar and a relaxed fit. Two large patch pockets add extra detail, making it more interesting and casual. Made in New York.
Available in 5 variations.
Price: $1598, get it here.
New and Lingwood - Raglan Sleeve Overcoat
A coat with a very clean silhouette and a beautiful vent on the back! Because it’s so sleek, it works better with more sartorial and formal styles.
Available in brown or grey herringbone.
Price: 1950€, get it here.
De Bonne Facture - Parisian Raglan Coat
Inspired by a vintage French 1950s gabardine raincoat, this raglan coat is a classic Parisian style, revisited in a Harris Tweed wool. This iteration is a special collaboration between De Bonne Facture & Centre Commercial. Made in France.
Price: 995€, get it here.
Valstar Milano - Raglan Overcoat
A very clean design, though slightly shorter than the average Balmacaan, sitting just above the knee. Made in Italy.
Available 6 variations.
Price: from 840€, get it here.
Document Donegal Tweed Oversized Balmacan Coat
This coat comes in a relaxed fit, making it perfect for casual wear. Paynter business model is that they don’t keep anything in stock, they open pre-orders 4 times a year and and only make what is ordered. This is amazing value for it’s price. Made in Portugal.
Available in 3 variations.
Price: $1,026, get it here.
Chrysalis for DAKS Kensington Brown Herringbone Overcoat
The Kensington Overcoat by Chrysalis, made for DAKS, is as classic and traditional as a Balmacaan can get - very clean and elegant with minimal details. This one comes in a beautiful dark brown herringbone, but there is also a version in navy blue wool. Made in UK.
Available in 3 variations.
Price: $1,079, get it here.
Horatio London Kilmore Coat
Their version of the Balmacaan coat in Prince of Wales check is another very clean version, but with a pattern and color that feel more casual. Made in England.
Available in 5 variations.
Price: 752,95€, get it here.
Paynter - Harris Tweed overcoat
This coat comes in a relaxed fit, making it perfect for casual wear. Paynter business model is that they don’t keep anything in stock, they open pre-orders 4 times a year and and only make what is ordered. This is amazing value for it’s price. Made in Portugal.
Available in 3 variations.
Price: 609,95€, get it here.
John Simmons - Tweed Overcoat
This coat is what we could call the definition of a Balmacaan. A perfectly executed traditional silhouette. Made in England. Great value for its price!
Available in 6 beautiful Harris Tweed variations and 2 different lengths.
Price: £579, get it here.
S.E.H. Kelly - Balmacaan coat
A very clean version, perfectly executed. It’s slimmer and shorter, and when combined with the fabrics used this season, it works best for more sartorial or formal looks.
Available in hopsack tweed in soot and in bracken.
Price: £710, get it here.
Sunspel - British Wool Car Coat
If you are looking for a shorter coat, this one comes in a car coat-length version, which means it sits around mid thigh.
Price: 1095€, get it here.
Poszetka - Donegal Tweed Raglan Coat
Now completely sold out, but I had to mention it. It’s not a typical Balmacaan, but instead their take on a casual overcoat - a very relaxed, belted version without buttons. It only has a button at the top if you want to close it all the way up. This is their first raglan overcoat and the latest piece added to their slowly growing selection of casual clothes, called Everyday Classic. Made in Poland.
Price: 769€, get it here.
I personally prefer a Balmacaan coat with more details, like the one from Drake’s. It has patch pockets with an extra ticket pocket, making it more casual, and a long vent at the back that helps it drape nicely and move more dramatically. I also prefer it in patterned wool because it's a long, wide coat that covers most of the body, and a solid color can look too plain and boring. But, if you want to keep it monochrome, I’d go for navy herringbone or camel hair to add some texture.
Which do you prefer? A simpler look or one with a contrasting pattern or color?
