Guide to quality knitwear - Roll neck sweaters
I think we can all agree that a crew neck sweater is the simplest and most common style of knitwear. But the second most popular style might lead to a long debate, depending on who you ask. People who lean toward more sartorial menswear might say a V-neck sweater or a cardigan - something they can pair with a shirt and tie. For casual dressers like me, most would agree that a roll-neck, or turtleneck, is much more practical. That’s the style I’ll focus on in this article.
A roll neck is a collar style that folds over and covers the neck. This design dates back to at least the 15th century, originally made to protect knights' necks under chainmail. Later, high-neck fashion became popular with royalty, where larger neck ruffles symbolized higher status.
In the late 19th century, roll necks were popular with fishermen, sailors, manual workers, athletes and naval officers. Their high neck provided protection from harsh weather and kept wearers warm, making them essential in cold climates. By the mid-1800s, around 1860 they became popular in sports, especially among polo players, leading to the term "polo neck."
During the First World War, roll necks were popular for their warmth and protection in harsh conditions. After the war, they changed from a simple everyday item to a more stylish choice. They became a statement piece, often worn as an alternative to formal clothing.
The roll neck became a symbol of rebellion and intellectualism, especially popular with beatniks and artists who rejected social norms. It stood out as a unique and stylish alternative to traditional fashion. Icons like Audrey Hepburn and Steve McQueen made it even more popular through their movies and personal style. Over time, it became linked to academics, film stars, philosophers, artists and musicians - a simple way to rebel against norms.
Today, roll-neck is a perfect option for windy and colder days. It covers the neck entirely and provide extra protection, which you appreciate even more if you live in a very windy region. Thinner versions can pair well with tailoring, but the thicker you go the more they can distort your body proportions. For example, I have a stronger upper body - more chest and wider shoulders, so mid-weight knitwear is the heaviest I can wear. If I put on something too thick I look much wider and shorter, so keep that in mind when choosing the weight of a roll neck sweater. A very thick or chunky version may work when you spend more time outside and wear it under a coat, but it won’t be the best choice if you plan to spend more time inside because of the reasons mentioned above. Also, I think thicker versions always look better if they are not plain, so in more visible rib or cable pattern.
Below I listed the best quality options available today.
Thinner options
This is the best option to wear under a jacket or tailoring. It could also work with outerwear only, but in my opinion it is more appropriate for layering.
Poszetka
Burgundy Merino Wool Turtleneck
Available in 3 colors.
Price: 128€, Buy it here.
John Smedley
Richards - Extra Fine Merino Wool Jumper - Truffle
Available in 14 colors.
Price: 280€, Buy it here.
Bonne Gueule
Pietro turtleneck sweater in taupe wool and cashmere
Available in 3 colors.
Price: 210€, Buy it here.
Rubato
Standard Turtleneck in Waves
Available in 12 colors.
Price: 250€, Buy it here.
Thicker options
These styles have more texture and a bit more structure due to the thickness of the wool, so they are perfect worn on their own or under outerwear.
Inis Meáin
Cashmere Boatbuilder
Available in 3 colors.
Price: 625€, Buy it here.
New and Lingwood
Lambswool Roll Neck Jumper
Available in 2 colors.
Price: 385€, Buy it here.
Fortela
OSLO-99214 ORG Roll Neck
Available in 6 colors.
Price: 510€, Buy it here.
Merz B. Schwanen
LOCT01 Turtleneck merino cashmere
Available in 6 colors.
Price: 260€, Buy it here.
Gloverall
Submariner Jumper Burgundy
Available in 10 colors.
Price: 171€, Buy it here.
Colhay’s
Cashmere ribbed submariner rollneck
Available in 8 colors.
Price: £483, Buy it here.
William Crabtree
Wool Cashmere Roll Neck
Available in 4 colors.
Price: 280€, Buy it here.
John Smedley
Faisal - Eco Cashmere Jumper in Polar
Available in 9 colors.
Price: 400€, Buy it here.
Heimat Textil
U Boot Rollneck
Available in 12 colors.
Price: 255€, Buy it here.
Manifattura Ceccarelli
Turtleneck Sweater M601-MA
Available in 4 colors.
Price: 330€, Buy it here.
Besnard
Camel Lambswool Ribbed Rollneck Sweater
Available in 3 colors.
Price: 258€, Buy it here.
Howlin'
Moonchild
Available in 4 colors.
Price: 265€, Buy it here.
Rubato
Explorer's Roll Neck in Dun
Available in 6 colors.
Price: 485€, Buy it here.
Malloch’s
Newman Lambswool Roll Neck Jumper
Available in 5 colors.
Price: 300€, Buy it here.
Bryceland's
RAF Rollneck Pullover
Available in 10 colors.
Price: HKD$2,640.00, Buy it here.
Fortela
Shetland Turtleneck Shet1-YEL
Available in 4 colors.
Price: 235€, Buy it here.
I personally never go for the thickest version of any knitwear style, mostly because it doesn’t work with my body type. I prefer a mid-thickness knit to wear under outerwear and thinner options to pair with overshirts and jackets. Since I have to get most ready to wear clothes in at least one size larger than ideal for my height, I prefer to tuck in my knitwear. In my opinion, it looks much better on most people because it makes the body proportions more flattering. But, this can be an issue with thicker knitwear, as it adds extra bulk around the waist. In that case, I fold in the bottom of the sweater and pull up the ribbing so the sweater folds over it and sits at my natural waist or slightly higher, allowing a bit of the belt to show.
Let me know if you have a favorite type when it comes to roll-necks.
